Do not pray for easy lives; pray to be stronger people! Do not pray for tasks equal to your powers; pray for powers equal to your tasks. Then the doing of your work shall be no miracle, but you shall be a miracle. Every day you shall wonder at yourself, at the richness of life which has come to you by the grace of God. Phillips Brooks

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Fried Squash Balls


Kind of like latkes, only fluffier. Inspired by food I ate in Greece, these squash balls are shaped more like frisbees and taste like ambrosia. Fitting.

Ingredients
2 med to large squash-yellow, zucchini, patty pan...I used some yellow ones with green ends.
2 large eggs
scant 1/2 c flour
salt
pepper
1 c grated cheese (I used a combo of cheddar and herbed yogurt cheese)
2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
oil for frying

Grate squash and place into a bowl.

Crack eggs into bowl, add some salt and pepper then mix thoroughly with a fork.

Sprinkle your grated cheese over the top.

Throw in the diced garlic.

Add about 1/3 of the flour and mix it in well, then another 1/3 and mix, then the rest.

Make sure that all of your ingredients are mixed together well and that the combo is a bit wet.



Heat the oil in a frying pan over med-high heat, when the oil is smoking grab a big spoon (the kind you use for soup or cereal eating, not the kind you cook with) and use it to scoop up a generous amount of the squash mixture and place it gently into the hot oil. You can put as many of these in your pan as will fit comfortably with a bit of space in between. Brown on one side and then turn gently over and brown the other side.

Drain on a plate lined with paper then eat them hot. Careful though, they're so good that your kids may eat them all before you get a taste.

Monday, June 29, 2009

Potato Salad with horseradish and herbs

I love potatoes.

I do not, however, love potato salad because too often the potatoes are undercooked and I'm sorry but potatoes are not supposed to crunch when you bite into them. Because of these two issues, I have been obsessing over potato salad lately. Like most things, I find that cooking it myself is the key to the kingdom. Also, it's getting close to July 4th and everyone is posting potato salad recipes so why not jump on the parade float?

Here is what this potato salad has going for it that makes me really happy:
The potatoes are tender
The flavor is more tart than creamy
My German-American husband smiled when he took a bite. Then he moaned in ecstasy.


Regardless of my feelings about undercooked potatoes, I am rather fond of a few crunchy bits in potato salad. Now that we're clear on what's important, let's get on with the recipe for this slightly spicy, slightly tart, completely yummy potato salad.

For the salad:
8-10 med to large potatoes. I used organic russets.
3 green onions. I picked mine from the garden.
2 stalks of celery. I like leaves on the celery, it's nice in the salad. My celery was just...celery.
salt
pepper
hot paprika-just a pinch or two.
dill. I used dried, organic but you could use fresh and it would be even more delicious. I use a lot of dill. You can try 1 tsp dried or about 1 Tbsp fresh but add more if you want to. Potato salad just isn't the same without it.

For the dressing:
1 egg yolk.* Ours was plucked out from under a chicken just before we used it.
2 Tbsp lemon juice. Sorry to admit but I used Real Lemon.
1/4 cup EVOO
1/4 cup basil leaves Fresh from the garden.
salt
pepper
1 Tbsp horseradish. I got mine out in the yard. Try to get a good, spicy prepared version. NOT horseradish sauce.

Boil the potatoes whole until they are fork-tender, remove them from the pot and let them cool. Once they have cooled off peel them, or don't. Maybe you like potato peels in your potato salad. I don't care for it, so I peel the taters. Cube the potatoes and toss them into a bowl. They should be soft, starchy and firm. They will also likely be sticky.
Dice up the celery and green onions. Toss them into the bowl on top of the potatoes.

Now for the sauce.

Put the yolk, lemon juice and about 1/2 of the EVOO into the bowl of a blender and pulse it to mix. Add a good pinch of salt, a few grinds of pepper, the horseradish and basil and blend. While this is going drizzle in the remaining oil and let it all mix together. Not too long, though.
Pour this over your potato mixture in the bowl and sprinkle the paprika and dill on top then mix everything together. The potatoes will disintegrate if you mix them too long, so be gentle and don't get carried away mixing and mixing. Just toss it all together and you're done.
You can serve this immediately or refrigerate and serve later. I don't recommend letting it sit out because of the egg yolk.
*If the thought of raw eggs freaks you out just omit the oil and yolk and half of the lemon juice and go on with things using mayonnaise instead of the omitted ingredients. It will change the flavor a bit, but will still taste great.

Tour of Our Garden, June 2009



Here are some recent photos of our gardens. The last few years have been rough with regards to our gardening efforts. Given the fact that our tomatoes don't do well no matter where we place them and they are our main passion, it's been difficult to get up any momentum but thanks to my feeling better and some determination found at at permaculture workshop, we're on our way back. I garden without the use of any chemical anything, though I do use rabbit poop soup to fertilize and soap spray to keep the buggies at bay. I'm pretty close to being The Worst when it comes to routine maintenance that involves more than daily watering.

I decided to try planting a variety of things together and to reacquaint myself with companion plantings. There is a tomato in the asparagus bed but it's struggling. I don't think it's just the bed of asparagus that is making the poor thing struggle though, they are supposed to get along...I suspect Bear (our Newfie) stepped on it. It looks very sad.

The squash are doing okay and so far I'm beating the damned squash bugs. Some squash vine borers got into the pumpkin stem and I finally pulled it out and got rid of it. We can plant more later. 

The herbs are coming along beautifully, though Martina's basil has mine topped by a mile. Her's is growing in the weedy grassy earth and mine is is a planter. I think water is the issue, though I water every morning. The planter is shallow and dries out quickly.

Today I am going to pick up some bamboo poles to build teepees out of for our late-planting of pole beans. I hope they grow and thrive. I think I'll also plant a few more zucchini and yellow squash in an effort to confuse the damned squash beetles. Wish me luck.

Sunday, June 28, 2009

Jet Lag

The 2nd Return of Wind

Martina/7 and Wind/4. Wind was born here at MTBar on tax day 2005. We owned his mama and his grandma before that. He is a Chincoteague cross. He has a marking on his side (covered by the saddle) which is shaped like a martini glass. We tell Martina that this is how we are sure he is her pony since we used to call her Martini when she was very small.

Once again, Wind is home. This time he has been gone for about 4 months to a lesson barn where he was ridden by a trainer and by children and small adults taking English riding lessons. This engagement was the result of my placing an ad on Craig's list for a 'free lease' for him. The situation has worked out beautifully, though he's home now not because I wanted him back but because he was escaping every night and crossing the street and going into the pasture belonging to a local polo club. Dangerous stuff playing in the street after dark.

video
This is a short clip of Martina and Wind doing some fun exercises in our smallest pen.

The gig served us all well. He is a much better behaved pony than he was when he left and Martina is now truly enjoying riding him.
We are doing Pony Camp as a part of our summer homeschool agenda. Here are the materials I am using:
Teaching Children to Ride by Jane Wallace.
Riding for Kids by Judy Richter.
Let's Ride! by Linda Tellington-Jones.
Beginning Horsemanship by Jennifer Leach. (free download)
The Beginning Horsemanship book is a free download and I am using that as our guide. It is a 4H publication and while Martina is a too young to participate in 4H, she is certainly old enough and capable enough to handle the material.
Cherry Hill's book gives us a good guide for working in the arena with Wind who is only 4 and still a bit green. He is showing great potential though and he is smart and beautiful, to boot. The other books we are using for a variety of information but not as our main guidebooks because they are oriented toward youngsters who ride English. All offer a great deal of sound information.
Summer is shaping up nicely and we're having a great time.
PS: we took the saddle to have a few more holes punched in the leathers yesterday. She won't have to ride on her tippy toes forever.

Saturday, June 27, 2009

A Solid Wall of Bugs

Driving home tonight I was talking about how, when I was a kid, hitting the North Carolina line didn't need a sign. Virginia sprayed. NC didn't. It was a solid wall of bugs that you hit at the state line but I was distracted from my story by the sudden sound of rain...only it wasn't, it was bugs. Driving through such gigantic swarms of them that it even LOOKED like rain. Creepy freaky funny weird.

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Delphi, pictures

Athens, pictures

Delphi and Athens, Greece

We were up early and showering to disembark from the cruise ship. The process was moderately confusing and disorienting…I detest being herded…but our own little herd made it through fine, hooked up with our tour guide Dyonisia (isn’t that a great name?) and we were off to Delphi.

Delphi is a long drive from Athens, two hours or so, but beautiful. I enjoyed seeing the countryside and listening to our guide tell us about Greece and her culture. I *loved* our guide for Athens. She was fantastic.

The boys were all sick from over drinking, Martina had to pee every 10 minutes, Mark was trying to hock up a lung, Dad had a cold. We were a merry group indeed. But Delphi? Oh my goodness, was I ever excited!

Dyonisia took us through the museum first and stopped only at the highlights to explain them. Her tour of the museum was thorough without being too much or taking too much of our time. She then escorted us to the ruins, showed us around and turned us loose to explore for a while. I really wanted to try and get to a point just above the platform where the priestess spoke her visions to the priest and did get there. 

Delphi was a long drive from Athens but I can only imagine what the journey must have been like hundreds or thousands of years ago. The mountains are huge and rocky. It must have been one hell of a trip back in the day.

Lunch was included at a tourist stop and the food was really good and plentiful. The third good meal we had on the trip.

We were then returned to Athens and our hotel where we settled in for the night. The following morning we toured Athens and visited the Acropolis. Seeing these historical sites is amazing but, of necessity, a bit rushed on a trip like the one we enjoyed. I would have loved to have wandered the ruins on the Acropolis at leisure like Mark, the kids and I did when we visited the Roman forum several years ago. As it was, the ruins are amazing but hidden behind a great deal of scaffolding.

On a tour of Athens comfortable walking shoes are a must and I really recommend something with a good deal of traction. We had the young men escort Dad and Evelyn back down the hill because the footing is very slick and we didn't want anyone taking a spill.

All in all, a great trip. The kids all spent a lot of time with their cousins. We got to visit some of the most amazing archeological sites in the world. We all came home safely. 

Places we visited on this trip that I'd like to see again:
Istanbul
Santorini
Patmos


Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Santorini, Greece

The Cristal's cruise director said that Santorini looks like a giant chocolate cake with white and blue sprinkles and really, it does!

One of the first things I noticed about the people of Santorini was their coloring. Many of them have light eyes, some brilliant blue, others Coke-bottle green and all of them shockingly lovely against the olive skin of the islanders. Even the old men with leather faces who were working the donkey-line had the most beautiful eyes.

When our ship arrived in the center of the volcanic crater it could not anchor, much less pull up to a pier. So to get off the ship we had to get on a tender boat which carried us to shore. The tender dropped us off at the bottom of the huge rock called Santorini. From the drop point to the top looked like an arduous climb and there were two other options: ride a donkey or ride a chair lift. There are no cars to drive you to the top. I wanted to try the donkey ride so we all lined up and paid our five Euro except Travis, who rode the chair lift with his cousin. The donkey man put Eli and Martina on the same one. It was a mule or a mammoth. But it looked like a mule.

Anyway, we rode up the long, winding, manure coated stairway to the top on the world’s most uncomfortable saddles. Not an experience to be missed but those guys are mean to the donkeys who are tools, not pets, don't doubt it. On the way up I saw one man wait for us to pass by before knocking the hell out of a white one that appeared to just be standing there. I hope the little white feller won the fight.

Our time on Santorini was short. Mark, Martina, Eli and I did a little shopping, a wee bit of wandering and then stopped at a bar named Vertigo and ordered drinks—freeze squeezed OJ and a carafe of red wine—and some appetizers and just sat in the wind, watching the sun drop and enjoyed the few peaceful moments. The same sex songs kept playing over and over again. It was first offensive, then tiresome and then just funny.

The boys rented 4-wheelers and went off exploring. Travis rode with his cousin, Heath, who has a drivers license. The rental guy asked Heath if he had ever driven a 4-wheeler and Heath told him, "Not really," or something like that. The man then asked Travis who said he has one at home. The two were promptly switched around and so Travis, who has no drivers license, got to drive around the island. He was deeee-lighted.

After drinks our time was growing short. We rode the tram down. It was both faster and more comfortable than the donkeys.

We did not have enough time to explore or to get a feel for the island. Not at all. Santorini is beautiful but from appearances the town is on top and it's a long damn way to the water. Are there beaches? Are there places less forbidding where we could walk and relax? Surely. We just didn't have time to find them.

Monday, June 22, 2009

Summer School, 2009

We 'do' summer school. We take breaks enough year round that having school in the summer, especially the really hot part, just makes good sense. Our focus for this summer, early 2nd grade for Martina, will be foreign language and equine arts.

Foreign Language
For German we are relying heavily on this site. I read the English version aloud and we then listen to the German version several times. We don't do this necessarily all in one sitting but over the course of a week we will focus on one song and one fairy tale and enjoy the sounds of the language.

Because we are Waldorf-focused while not being puritanical about it, this is the approach we use. We listen. We are also using the Springboard to German series which was a give away from a local home school cooperative's freebie table. This approach is fun and active and Martina is having a great time with it.

For Italian we are searching. Springboard does not have an Italian course so I'm shopping. I'll let you know when I settle and begin a course. We have used Pimsleur but I need visuals (read: I need the words written down, not just spoken) and it's too adult focused for a 2nd grader to really enjoy. I in no way mean to devalue Pimsleur's program, it's good and very helpful if you want to learn spoken Italian for a trip. It just is not a good fit for our needs. I am considering using this curriculum, from Teach Me. It has gotten good reviews and seems like a good fit for what I'm shopping for: songs, stories, letters, numbers, all in a recorded version that we can listen to and play along with but which comes with a text.

If you have suggestions for a children's Italian language program, please comment and leave the information.

Equine Arts:
Isn't that a fancy title? What does it mean? It means that our pony is coming home from the lesson program he's been in for the last few months and so we're going to use his arrival as the impetus for Horse Camp 1-on-1. I printed this out for a guide. As long as we can get moving early in the day on this, it will be a great time and an opportunity to keep Wind working and Martina growing into a rider.

We are also doing some art work and plan on attending some fun activities over the summer. It's school but it's fun.


Sunday, June 21, 2009

Crete, Greece



CRETE AND THE PALACE OF KNOSSOS

This was the One Big Thing for Eli on our Greecian Odyssey. For me it was the potential of seeing Delphi which gave me the ability to shut up and smile when my family informed me that there was nothing inside the pyramid (and I thought: No shit.) for Eli it was the thought of visiting the Palace of Knossos that pulled her through the potentially rough spots with her lips firmly sealed.

I was up at 6:30. By 7am I was showered and waking up everyone who might want to go with us to Knossos, especially Eli. We tried. We really tried but 200 Euros for a round trip taxi ride was more than we could bear, especially given the prospect of spending less than an hour wandering around the ruins. I am angry at Louis Cruises for not informing us about the length of travel from port to Palace. We could have debarked at 7am but didn't until about 7:45 am. We were then informed that it was over an hour's drive to Knossos. Which, by then, would have left us little time to wander before we had to rush back to the ship as it was pulling up the gangway at 11:15 am.

Poor Elizabeth. If the cruise line had offered us more information about traveling to Knossos without their help, we would have joined the excursion.

Instead we rented 3 4-wheelers and cruised the streets and coastline of Crete. The island we saw was pretty and fairly friendly. It was fun riding up and down the coastline. Martina, at one point, demanded that we return to the rental place and so we did. I thought she had to pee but once she realized how much time was left she didn't want to get off the back of her dad's 4-wheeler. I, on the other hand, felt as if my breasts had come out of joint and was happy to dismount. Travis came with me.

Travis and I spent the next hour wandering the waterfront and browsing the shops while Mark, Martina, Eli and Billinda (my neice) rode over the island.

It's obvious that a few hours was nowhere near enough to discover this beautiful island and we didn't get to see the Palace of Knossos. Which sucks.

Friday, June 19, 2009

Dad


Trying to think of a Father's Day gift for my Dad is like trying to figure out how to build an ocean using a spoon and a fish egg. I'll get him a card. I'll make him supper. That's about all I can figure. But my Dad is really great and I wish to pay him homage, so here are 5 things about my Dad that make him The Best.

1. 

He put this kid through college and then? He hired him.


2.

He's doing the same thing for this one. 
Why yes, that is the Sphinx just over her shoulder.
3.


Dad takes us to really cool places like these. Is there really a way to say Thank You for this? (The pic above is Mark and I playing priest and pythia at Delphi)

4.  He loves his family in the best way he knows how: unconditionally.

5.

He always flirts with a lady, no matter how big her nose may be.

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Rhodes, Greece



Martina in the Mediterranean. The water was clean and super salty.

Today we docked on the great island of Rhodes. Rhodes, I know, is famous for creating great scholars and for the Colossus which stood guard over the entrance to its harbor for many years.

Our arrival on Rhodes was dreary but we eventually discovered the hidden beauty. Hint: It was not behind those thick, ancient walls.

We got up around 6:45 and off the ship early-ish but the weather was dreary. It was overcast, dripping a bit and being susceptible to weather-inspired depression, Eli and I wore out quickly. We tried to purchase a day on scooters but Mark was frustrated by the man’s unwillingness to haggle and so we walked one way and the other down the waterfront near where our cruise ship docked. For all we could see of Rhodes, it was an ugly, reeking, gray place. Eventually we came across an entrance to the Old City. These are ancient fortifications which now hold in a million stores selling scarves, carpets and jewelry. We looked and walked and got damp and decided we had to go back onto the ship and read the day away. Not a bad plan.

 View over the Aegean.

By the end of lunch, however, the sky was bright and the waiter near the fruit bar so fervently suggested that we go to the beach if we could that we decided to do so. Our karma is running in the right direction for we found a great cabby who haggled with Mark a bit, asked us about our beach preferences: sandy or rocky; small waves or large; windy or less windy? he drove us to the beach that sounded best to us: sandy, not much wind, little waves, umbrellas and chairs for a fee and a kantina. We enjoyed 2 hours there. I slept, Eli read, Martina swam and played with rocks, Mark swam, sunned, picked up rocks and watched the topless women. We shared several bottles of water and we adults enjoyed sharing one huge beer. It was a very relaxing way to spend the afternoon.

The Temple of Apollo on the Acropolis of Rhodes.

Our cab driver, Nikolas, came back and picked us up at the appointed time and he then gave us a brief tour of the island. We saw the place where the Colossus stood, the temple of Apollo on the Acropolis, the neighborhoods where the locals live and the tourist sections with hotels, restaurants and bars. Nikolas' excellent English and calm, kind nature made the $75 Euro trip and tour a great value for us.

 The harbor where the Colossus stood, one foot on either side of the entrance.

By the end of the day Rhodes had taken on a completely different look for our family. No longer dirty and dreary it was beautiful, blue and sunny with a big helping of kindness.

Eli, Me, Mark and Martina in front. We're sand and salt crusted from the beach. Our driver took the photo for us.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Ephesus, Turkey, photos

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Kusadasi, Turkey. Ephesus



The Odeon seated about 1500 people.

Fantastic tortoise/turtle we saw. See the fabulous patterns on its shell?
Amphitheater. Mark and I sat. Randall and M walked up.

The marble road. Slick as hell even on a hot, dry day. I can't imagine riding a horse down it.

I thought this was pretty. 
My bookends. 

This kid is a champ. Used to a quiet country life, she managed many hot days in the sun. Doesn't she look just a little bit...melted?
Exploring the ruins. The best part of NOT having a guide.
Honesty in advertising.

KUSADASI, TURKEY (EPHESUS)

The ship docked in Kusadasi and we disembarked and found a cab to take us to Ephesus. Randall, Martina, Hubby and I. The cab driver was kind and his English excellent. Once more I thanked the powers that be for allowing me to be born English-speaking. It is amazing how many people have a basic working knowledge of how to communicate in my native tongue. 

The traffic was much less crazy here than in Istanbul. We rode approximately 25 kilometers through the countryside and were dropped at an entrance to Ephesus. The driver explained that he would meet us at the other end, saving us a long, hot walk. The weather was dry and hot but we had dressed well for it and had sunscreen on and more to apply as needed...except for the tops of my sandal-clad feet which I forgot and which were burnt all to hell by the end of the day.

The ruins at Ephesus are amazing and the historical figures who passed through, beginning with the legendary founders, the Amazons, impressive. Anthony and Cleopatra once rode in procession down the flat marble road. Julius Caesar and his father both spent time there. 

We did not join a tour group but explored on our own aided by the purchase of a four Euro guide book. I had read a lot about Ephesus and thoroughly enjoyed the walk through the site which is still being excavated today.

Kusadasi, the town, did not hold much appeal for us. We ate fries at a Burger King and got back on board the ship.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Delos and Mykonos, Greece



We rode to Delos (Dee-lohs) on a tender boat. 
Avast! Me hearties! 
We all stripped down to our swim suits and got sunburn on the 45 minute tender boat ride from Mykonos to Delos. Except Eli. She kept her dress on.  Lucky for us. The captain may have lost focus otherwise...
This is Randall standing above the cistern in the ruins on Delos. 

Eli. Pardon the fly on her chest.
The Avenue of the Lions. Delos, Greece.

MYKONOS AND DELOS, GREECE

This was the one ship excursion I decided on before we left home. Delos is the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis and the most extensively excavated site in Greece. All of the kids went with us, including 2 nephews and Dad and Evelyn.  

Martina was very excited about seeing the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis but actually, we never saw a 'birthplace.' It was just the ruins on the island. Fascinating for me. Disappointing for the little one.

We left the ship and got onto a tender boat for the 45 minute ride to Delos. The ride was nice. Pulling up to the island was magic as we could see the excavations and they are extensive. I won't bore you with details on what is there. If you're going to Mykonos though, it's worth the time to visit Delos if you enjoy archaeological sites.

 

This is where we ate supper on Mykonos. I did not get the name of the restaurant but yum!

A street on Mykonos.

Travis, Eli and Martina.

Pretty.


Eli and Martina. Supper. Mykonos.

Mykonos is the playground of the rich, famous, young and beautiful. We didn’t see much besides the main part of town, the tourist area. It was lovely, however. There are tiny winding streets lined with businesses that cater to tourists but the people were kind and respectful. We were starving and finally settled on a beautiful little café with an owner who spoke decent English. (We are SO lucky.)

 


Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Istanbul, Turkey




ISTANBUL, TURKEY

We arrived safely at the airport after flying business class from Cairo. The man who expedited our airport transfer was a godsend. Marcus? Thank you.

What a relief to be in Istanbul after staying in dirty, scary Cairo for several days. Istanbul is cool and green and on water, in fact it straddles the Golden Horn which divides Asia Minor from Europe. It is a beautiful city.


We stayed at the Erasin Taxim Hotel. Interestingly, I thought it was wonderful-clean, sleek, modern, well-staffed and outfitted but other family members thought it was awful. I think it’s simply  POV. They like American Colonial and want it big. I’m fine with small, compact  and modern. The hotel is near Taxim Square. We walked there in the evening which just happened to be the anniversary of the day the Turks overtook Constantinople. There was excitement in the air and crowds in the streets. Some of the crowds were having a labor demonstration and there were hundreds of police armed and outfitted with riot gear watching the demonstration. It was both frightening and exhilarating.

Because of the demonstration we were detoured off the main way and I am so happy this happened. We walked through streets that were humming with the voices of thousands of people crammed into tiny cafes where they were smoking and eating and drinking and enjoying life. There were markets selling lovely, fresh fish, vegetables that looked bright and full of life. Fantastic.

On the way home we found the younger folks all eating and smoking hookah at a café near the hotel. They kept it close and turned in early that night.


Martina. Rose.

Next morning we rose and enjoyed breakfast on the terrace before loading our bags onto the bus and departing for our day-long tour of the highlights of the city.



We went first to the Blue Mosque. This is the stand-out for Martina's entire trip. Her very favorite thing we did was visit the Blue Mosque. It was beautiful.


Then, the Underground Cystern. I had heard of this, read the name maybe, but not seen photos or explored it at all. What an amazing experience. Down about 4 flights of stairs from a busy Istanbul street there is a huge room with a roof held up with columns robbed from many, many pagan temples. The columns are mix-matched and fantastic. Two of them are held up by marble blocks into which are carved the heads of Gorgons (Medusa). The Medusas are not right-side up. There are electric lights but they are dim and at some point there have been fish put into the water. The look like Koi and they sparkle as they swim above the coins that glint from below them where people have made their wishes. The girls and I all tossed in coins and added our wishes to the stew.

Mark and Evelyn were sick and so they stayed on the bus and rested.


After the cistern we took a short stroll to the Hagia Sophia. Astonishing both in opulence and architecture. Impossible to absorb in a 30 or 60 minute visit. All of us were wearing out by this point. Istanbul is crowded and hectic and we did a lot of walking and hustling and listening and it really does wear one down. Probably best, because our next stop was the Grand Bazaar and there's enough energy in that place to power the world. 


We got back on the bus and off again outside the Bazaar. Mark and Evelyn came with us now. Mark, Martina, Travis, Randall, Charles, Quinn and I stayed together and wandered into the labyrinth of the quintessential Turkish Bazaar. We sprinted past the opening phases of carpet shops, jewelry stores and leather goods markets and went into the depths looking for a hookah, scarves, sun glasses and a glass orb. Other things as well, whatever was on our lists, you know. There is so much color, sound, scent and motion that it is disorienting and by the time we came out I had a rocking headache but was also excited by the experience. It’s like a huge flea market where everyone carries the same stuff, in different combinations, and they try and sell it for hugely inflated prices.


After that we limped our way to the cruise ship and went through the hassles involved in all that. Not too bad, all things considered. Then we unpacked, heaved a huge sigh of relief and either took naps or went to a bar.

Next day, Sunday, was a free in the city.  The girls, Mark and I went for a walk off the ship but quickly figured out that Sunday is a quiet day in Istanbul. I became light-headed from hunger and we reboarded, ate lunch and napped until family dinnertime. My sister ordered a cake for her husband who was ill with dysentery in Egypt on his actual birthday.

The ship set sail about an hour behind schedule.

We should pass through the Dardenelles in about 2 hours. Yawn. I don’t think I’m going to be awake that long. Greece tomorrow.

(I have left this post in a basically unedited journal form. Please pardon any verbs that don't agree or other grammatical or syntactical errors.)

Travel food, Istanbul, Mykonos, Delphi







Lunch by the sea in Istanbul. Langorous. Delicious.
Food is important to Hubby and I. Very important. We like to eat well. So I have to tell you that our food trip experience sucked overall. There were a few highlights which I will share but cruise food and hotel food and Egyptian tour package food? Blech.

The hightlights:
Istanbul. We had the first good meal we ate on the trip near Taxim Square in Istanbul. We strolled down a side street, let ourselves be lured in by a menu hawker (they are at the front of every restaurant) and sat down for a great meal of lentil soup, fried sardines, grilled chicken, arugula salad and strawberries with cream. It was good, solid, locally-inspired food. 

Also in Istanbul, near the Sea of Marmara or the Golden Horn or some other body of water I was way too disoriented to know the name of, we were shepherded to a local place called Nautica or some such. Fantastic. Appetizers and fresh fish and local wine and plenty of cool water.

I ate more at that lunch than I did the entire time we were in Cairo where I lived off of falafel, hummus and pita. 

Lunch began with hors d’oevres. There were anchovies, a spicy tomato salsa, large firm white beans with oil and carrots, yogurt sauce with cucumbers and herbs. Then they brought shrimps in oil with garlic and cheese melted on top. Then a beautiful salad of lettuce, cucumber, carrot, tomato and onion. At some point they took orders and for those who wanted fish, we had two choices. Everyone else chose one type of fish and I chose the other. It was all so good. 


This is what was left after we all ate all we could eat of the Greek salad. Sorry, no before photos. We were ravenous. (Mykonos, Greece.)

Martina in the Gratutitous Martina Sucking Spaghetti travel photo. (Mykonos, Greece.)

On Mykonos we wandered around looking for someplace to eat. We were ravenous but wanted a really good meal. Eventually we were lured in by a tub of live lobsters, a display of fresh fish and shrimps on ice, an incredible, purple bugainvillea on the roof, orange tables and gorgeous young waiters flirting wildly with Eli. This meal was the first time I think any of us felt relaxed and completely satisfied during the trip. (Egypt was stressful.)

Mark had pasta with tomato cream sauce, shrimp and arugula and it was the home run on the table. There was a smoky element that I'm going to have a difficult time replicating but I think sweet paprika is going to be my first try for this elusive spice. Eli and I ordered Greek salads which consisted of a pile of red, sliced tomatoes, cucumber, green peppers, and a slab of fresh feta. Oil, vinegar, balsamic and the pepper mill came to the table along with the salad. The onions had been brined or marinated and were sweet, crunchy and so mild that even Martina ate a bunch of them. The kids all had pasta and I ordered the native fish dish served with rice and vegetables. The owner came and deboned the fish for me at our table. Delicious. If you can find the place by the pictures, by all means eat there. It was pricey but well worth it.


I was too hungry to photograph the food. These flowers were out front. (Delphi, Greece)

The third and final good meal of our trip was at a tourist feeding operation near Delphi. There was plenty of bus parking and plenty of food. It's a good damn thing too because it was 2:3o pm before we got lunch. We were fed appetizers of spanikopita, bread and tzatziki, dolmas, fried zucchini balls and then a Greek salad. We had choices for the main course: cheese stuffed veal meatballs, skewered pork, grilled chicken with rice and fried potatoes. After a week of cruise food we all ate like wolves.

There were a few things I'd like to re-create at home. The spaghetti with shrimps, arugula and tomato cream sauce; fried zucchini balls; dolmas using cabbage instead of grape leaves; the tomato salsa; maybe a few others. If I hit a home run, I'll post the recipe. I tried the shrimp spaghetti last night and while it was edible, tasty even, it was not even close. There is some smoky ingredient missing and it isn't paprika. Shrimp heads, maybe? Let me know if you have an idea here. Smoky and good with shrimp, tomato and cream...

And one more thing, I only gained 1 pound.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Dear Family


Dear Family,
Thank you all for being such great travelers. I am so overwhelmingly proud of all of you children for being smart and for listening to the tour guides, asking questions even, and for not rolling your eyes or talking about how bored you were where anyone could see.  I completely appreciate the fact that all of you managed to pack 2 weeks worth of clothing into one suitcase each that weighed less than 40 pounds and that you could roll your own bags through the 18,762 airports we ran through going and coming.
Martina, thank you for only puking one time and not on the airplane. I'm sure the Egyptian airport's janitorial staff feel differently but I am proud. You carried your own 70 pound self through 2-24 hour travel sessions. You slept on the airplane when I told you it was time. You woke up and ate the shitty food because you knew it might be the last chance to eat for hours. You drank water when it was offered. You agreed every time I told you it was time for more sunscreen.
Elizabeth, thank you for keeping your tatas under a scarf the whole time we were in Egypt and for most of the time we were in Turkey. Also, I appreciate that you only had one major melt down the whole trip and that you managed to work it out and move in with your brothers and that was the end of it. Thank you for not flirting with hotel employees in any Developing Nation. I also want you to know that I, at least, appreciate the fact that you looked out for the Pig Twins and tried to keep them alive when no one else seemed to give a shit. Kudos.
Travis, you travel well. You are quiet and keep your thoughts to yourself. I don't know if it's healthy or not but it was good on the trip. Thank you for not being a drunk. Your liver appreciates it as much as I do. I know your shoe situation sucked and that you got tired of wearing flip flops but you dealt with it and didn't complain. You sang karaoke with me when we had Mom's night out. You stayed by the Pig Twins in Cairo and offered them a man-shoulder. I appreciate the way your calm, steady demeanor soothes the world.
Randall, you are well traveled and you travel well. Thanks for riding in the cab with Martina and I. In fact, thanks for being so cool with your baby sister throughout the trip. I got some great photos of you two. Thanks for sharing your knowledge with me when I had questions at the myriad archaeological sites we visited. Your grasp and retention of that stuff is amazing. Your willingness to go with the flow and bite the bullet on occasion was noted and appreciated. Greatly.
Mark, when I was not with Martina you managed to keep her from falling off the Acropolis of Athens. It was slick. Thank you. You are almost always supportive when I am in serious need of it and on these trips, that happens. 
I hope you all had fun and gained memories to last.
Love,
Mom/Tina

Sunday, June 7, 2009

Cairo, Egypt


The clan. The pyramids.

PYRAMIDS:

When I was a little girl I used to think: Someday. Someday I will see the pyramids. I never expected that I actually would. But I did get to see them. We spent 4 days in Cairo visiting the pyramids, museums, and sitting on our butts around the hotel pool smoking hookah and drinking anything that didn't appear to have Egyptian water in it.

Me, smoking hookah. Tobacco. Tiktik. Shisha. Yum.

For our tour of the archaeological sights the guide, who wished to be called an Egyptologist, hustled us out of the hotel with stress and pressure because a couple of folks in our party were 10 minutes late. He made it sound as if that 10 minutes would ruin the rest of the day. We went directly to the pyramids, visited the Solar Ship, actually the funerary transport vessel for the Pharaoh Cheops. I think. We then were allotted TWENTY FIVE MINUTES to walk around and explore the area. He threatened to leave anyone behind who wasn’t there on time. I wished to go inside the pyramid but was told there was no time. Then everyone continued on telling me what was inside: nothing. No shit. What was inside was not the point. ME getting to go inside was but no one understood that and were hustled off for the Panoramic View where we could take photographs. Oh well. We didn't know yet what a shyster this guy was. Henry.

Once we got to the panoramic view area for photos we were hustled along, ‘Hurry, hurry,’ to go see the Sphinx where we had something like 22 seconds to listen to the description given by our guide, take photos and explore. 

I think this was easier on the camel than when the guy on Santorini put them on the same mule. (and it was a MULE, not a donkey.)

We then walked a few blocks to the camel rides our guide expedited for us. They were located on a city street lined with apartment buildings, concrete benches and camels, where several members of our group paid $20 each for a ride. Those of us who chose not to ride sat in the shade and watched the parade of people and animals and vehicles which passed by. Trash, like in all of Cairo, was everywhere. In poor sections there were always people sifting through it. We are fairly sure that 50% of the fee we paid for the camel rides went to our 'Egyptologist.' Those who rode had a great time, though. The look on M's face was worth the relatively small fee and in my opinion, the guide deserved his fee for expediting this process for us.

one of the renegade donkeys, momentarily safe from the stick wielding boy

A FEW NOTES ON THINGS I SAW IN CAIRO, MOSTLY FROM THE BUS

Everywhere we went, we were accompanied by a government agent. He was always quiet, barely noticeable and carrying an MP3 sub-machine gun.

Traffic like I’ve never seen or heard of, horns honking, exhaust fumes, horses, donkeys, moving through it, goats driven down the center of streets. Camels resting in the shade and one dead by a canal, left to rot, apparently. Women dumping their trash cans out of the windows of their apartments or over the canal walls into the water.

Cruelty. People are cruel to one another and more cruel to animals. Animal rights are not pertinent here. Human rights are still being formed. A little boy running smiling through the streets with a stick, beating 3 donkeys to move them away from his family’s camel ranch.

A guide who rushed us through the pyramids and museum but made every effort to force us to shop for papyrus, lotus perfume and Egyptian cotton and a transfer agent/expediter for the same company who we may not have made it out Egypt without. He was a great help at the airport where we had a bit of hassle due to our not having printed tickets and little documentation.

Staying in a gated complex where we had no interaction with the greater culture but simply functioned within our own culture inside the insulated, fenced place where we stayed. Outside our gates was another world where the culture of Cairo seethed and flowed. We were fortunate that no one was rude to our girls, really, even though a couple of them could not be convinced to wear anything but skin-tight blue jeans and shirts that show deep cleavage or which were transparent.

Within the walls of our gated complex we could have been almost anywhere.

There are many houses/apartment buildings in Cairo. Many is not the right word. Masses, swarms, millions of apartment buildings. All have satellite dishes blooming from the walls and roofs. Most have rebar sticking out from the top so that the building can continue on upward for future family members so they can stay close.

CRUISING THE NILE:

Nile Maxim. The food was the best we ate in our 3 day stay in Cairo. The dervish dancer was good the belly dancer not so much. She was pretty and had humongous breasts that one of my nephews kept wanting to pop with a needle. Her costumes were cheap looking, like she bought them from Fredericks of Bollywood. Tight, shiny, loud. I’m no expert but it looked more like a Virginia Beach club dance than any great belly dance. I’m sure her breasts are famous. The dervish, OTOH, was interesting…though he must shop at the same store. Outside, the view was beautiful. There were smaller boats all strung with lights that flashed in many colors.

We all got bitten by something. At first we thought it was mosquitos but no, we were all chewed up by bedbugs. Yum.


Making dreams come true. M dreamed that we would visit the pyramids wearing purple dresses. Eli and I did what we could to make that part happen. I have to add here how proud I was of my blonde hottie kid who managed Egypt and Turkey with a great sense of decorum. The cleavage didn't show up until we got to Greece. Good girl.

THINGS WE WERE TOLD:

20 million people

40 million cars

There is no drug problem in Egypt

No one goes to bed hungry in Cairo.

That Mark is ‘King America’. Apparently his moustache Means Something. This something has to do with Sadam Houssein's political party. Mark is a Libertarian, thank you very much.

There are no longer crocodiles in the Nile. Amended to none North of the dam.

Friday, June 5, 2009

Chilling Out


Here


and here. Back in a few.

No NAIS!

Crossroads

On the day of my 45th birthday

this poem was published in the

Sanctuary at the Women's

Colony. I love it and thank

the author, Joyce Sutphen,

for writing this poem honoring

the process of living a life

beyond youth.

Crossroads


The second half of my life will be black
to the white rind of the old and fading moon.
The second half of my life will be water
over the cracked floor of these desert years.
I will land on my feet this time,
knowing at least two languages and who
my friends are. I will dress for the
occasion and my hair shall be
whatever color I please.
Everyone will go on celebrating the old
birthday, counting the years as usual,
but I will count myself new from this
inception, this imprint of my own desire.

The second half of my life will be swift,
past leaning fenceposts, a gravel shoulder,
asphalt tickets, the beckon of open road.
The second half of my life will be wide-eyed,
fingers sifting through fine sands,
arms loose at my sides, wandering feet.
There will be new dreams every night,
and the drapes will never be closed.
I will toss my string of keys in into a deep
well and old letters into the grate.

The second half of my life will be ice
breaking up on the river, rain
soaking the fields, a hand
held out, a fire,
and smoke going
upward, always up.


~Joyce Sutphen
Straight Out Of View, New Rivers Press

My Readers, I love them!

MT Bar's Theology of Food

I believe that we should be reasonable in what we expect of ourselves. Eating is not a black and white issue, it is about eating foods that we enjoy and which nourish us and our families. I used to love to cook. I don't love it so much any more and I am always looking for things to feed my family that are nutrient dense, flavor filled and easy. The simplest things I've found come wrapped in apple skins or orange peels. For things that we enjoy and which require a bit more prep than a rinse or a peeling, I will share my recipes--created here and found elsewhere--for good food.
Theology:
>Do your best and forgive yourself for not being perfect. Eating, feeding your family is SO not about perfection. It's about doing the best you can most of the time and being happy that you're eating, even if it's Taco Bell, the times you just don't have the oomph! to prep a great meal.
>I believe in limiting fat but do not eat low or non-fat foods.
>If I want something sweet, I'll try fruit or hot tea with honey but if nothing will work but ice cream or a Milky Way bar. I eat that. Not a gallon of ice cream but a small cup. Not a King Sized bar, a tiny one.
>I try to purchase chemical free foods.
>I have an issue with the word organic now that it's government controlled...but I do still purchase organic food.
>I try to source my foods locally. I buy beef from a local cattle farmer. The veggie stand down the road gets a good portion of their summer income stream from my family.
>I grow food at home. We have laying hens and a garden. We have lambs. My husband hunts. We do what we can.
>I strongly believe that eating food in a form that is as close as possible to the way it grew from the earth is the best way to nourish our bodies.
>I believe that sometimes the most nourishing way sometimes just has to make room for experimentation, flavor and fun.
If you're anywhere near on the same page, you may enjoy some of the recipes I have to share.